Damn, it's hot in the desert! How's that for an astute observation? I'm known for those. I'm in the Rio Grande Village of Big Bend National Park these days so I decided to start with a hike close to home; meaning the trail head was nearby. Tomorrow I will venture further West for my explorations, and I will start much earlier.
The trail for today was the Daniel's Ranch to Hot Springs run. It's a 2.8 mile trek each way. That's a breeze right? Well, add a whole lot of rugged desert rocks and scorching sun and it becomes quite a hike.
I left at 11. It was still cool and there was a nice breeze; figured I would arrive at the hot spring by 12:30 or so. I had packed a lunch and brought along my Artist's Way workbook and journal thinking I would spend a couple of hours at the hot spring before returning to start.
It was 1 o'clock before I arrived and I was whipped. I started out having a great ol' time hiking and gawking and taking pictures. I do 3.5 miles on the elliptical machine in 40 minutes, so this should be a piece of cake, right? After awhile though I was thinking this had to be the longest 2.8 miles... I started to wonder in fact if they had mis-measured the trail and it was actually 6 miles each way. Every bend just seemed to expose more desert terrain. Where's the damn river already?? 
Finally! I see the river again. So where's this hot spring. It most be close by. It might as well been another mile away. By this point, the sun is right over head. I haven't seen shade since I left. I'm hot. I'm hungry and I want to rest. Luckily I could see people and lovely green reeds by the river. Not far now...
It was good to finally arrive and there was actually a thin strip of shade along the one wall to the ancient hot spring. The best part no one else seemed interested in the shade. There was a large group of English and Belgian families who were on a lunch break from their canoe trip down the river. They were having a grand time playing in the hot spring as well as body surfing in the river.
I sat in the shade and ate my tuna and cracker lunch while listening to the laughter and fun of this bunch. I honestly couldn't imagine sitting in the hot spring though. The water is 105. After trekking almost 3 miles in the hot desert sun that didn't sound at all enjoyable. But I did dip my feet in the cool river water and drenched my kerchief thoroughly before putting it on my head. Ahhh. Now there's relief!
The canoers left and I now had the place to myself for awhile. The shade was limited, but there was enough to relax and rest. Smaller groups now started coming to the spring. Funny to watch the disappointment from most. They came the short distant from a nearby parking lot, not even a long hike, and they expected more. It really was kind of tiny and understated, but after a long hike it did provide a nice oasis. I had been there for about an hour now and was beginning to worry about the long trek back. The sun was hotter now. I had one bottle of water left. It was tempting to ask one of the driving hikers for a lift back, but damn my pride. I just couldn't. I did accept an extra water from a couple I had seen on the trail earlier in the day. I thought then they were finishing the trail when I first ran into them. Nope, they had hiked to the river overlook, saw the map description of no shade and decided to drive the rest of the way.
Anyway, with extra water and new resolve, I decided to tackle the 2.8 miles back with a vengeance. My goal was to do it in 90 minutes. No dilly dallying or picture taking. Hike! Well I did take a few pictures, but not many. I was really focused on hiking and getting the hell out of that hot sun. I'm such a stubborn fool sometimes. I probably really should asked for a lift. But ya know, if I had done that I would not have seen the really cool rose colored snake. I would not have taken time to reflect on an earlier conversation with the river guide Mark, and last but not least, I would have missed out on the sense of accomplishment and the absolute joy of finding some adequate shade before the final descent.
Reflections on conversation with river guide: When Mark asked where I was from, my immediate response was "nowhere and anywhere." We had a short but important conversation about being homeless. Anyway, on return hike I thought about my response. It had been so immediate and so "inspired." To be from nowhere is actually a bit disconcerting. It's not belonging to any one or any place in particular. It's a very lonely proposition. But to be from "anywhere" was very freeing. It reminded me about the choices ahead of me. I can go anywhere. I can be anywhere I need to be. It is good to be from nowhere and anywhere all at once. For a time, I am unfettered and freed. I can experience life in a new way.
With that, sweet dreams...
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